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苏州人有多会吃把祭祀食品变街头美食

2019-06-08 19:25:28
小儿干咳怎么办
小儿干咳怎么办
小儿干咳怎么办

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“寒食青团店,春低杨柳枝。酒香留客在,莺语和人诗。”这是一千多年前,唐代诗人白居易路过青团店,留下的诗篇。

以前,透着浆麦草清香、甜甜糯糯的青团是用于祭祀的,如今已转变成人们在春天时尝鲜的美食。

“On Cold Food Festival at the Green Cake Shop, Spring has lowered the willow branches; the bouquet of the wine keeps customers inside, whose voices join the songbirds' whisper forming a poem.”this is a poetry left by famous poet Bai Juyi of Dang danasty when he passed by the Green Groups Shop.

Before, green groups are very ancestor-worship clear offerings with the flavor of wheat and sugar, and now they have become popular food for people in spring.

沈建芬是文魁斋的第一代弟子,百年老店文魁斋的名号最响,他们家手工制作的青团工艺代代相传。七年前,沈建芬将古法制作青团的秘诀带到了苏州,在葑门横街开设“沈记青团”。

七年前,横街没有人吃青团。如今只要一到浆麦草生长的季节,很多人都会闻着清香来到“沈记青团”。

Shen Jianfen, the first generation of Wenkui Building which is the most popular country-old shop, whose green groups process spreads from generation to generation. Seven years ago, Shen Jianhui brought this process to Suzhou, a southern city of China, and opened the shop of GreenGroups of the Shen.

At that time, no one ate green groups in Heng Street. But now, when spring comes people come with the smell of GreenGroups of the Shen.

沈建芬制作的青团十分考究,遵循祖传工艺,对她来说,做青团必须使用青汁,青汁是由一种叫浆麦草的野生植物制成的。使用浆麦草做的青团,蒸熟出锅后,会有一股清香的味道扑鼻而来,若是有人刚好走过,定会被这清香的气味所吸引,必须买上几个刚出锅的青团,吃上几口才算过瘾。

Shen Jianfen’s way of making greengroups is really exquisite. He follows the ancient process which must use the Green Water. Green Water is made from a kind of wild plant which is called pulp straw. After the steam out of the pot, there will be the flavour of the fragrance pubi if using this material. If some one passes by, he must be attracted by the smell and buy some to eat.

沈建芬对青团的馅料也十分讲究,从豆沙馅的制作就可见一斑。她做的豆沙必须使用传统打磨机磨出,再加以红糖、猪油等搅拌,做出来的豆沙馅口感丝滑,肥而不腻。

It is also exquisite for Shen Jianfen to make the material of filling. This is straightforward on the making of red bean that it must use traditional grinding machine and then put into brown sugar and lard, combing and stirring, then the outcome would be smooth and greasy.

这青团,看着碧绿,闻着清香,吃着香甜。如今横街的“沈记青团”早已是门庭若市,沈建芬和她丈夫俩人在店里现包现做,还有亲戚帮忙打打下手,有人包、有人蒸、有人卖,每天都可以卖出上千个青团。沈建芬让这一千年前的祭祀食品,成为苏州横街人们日常最爱的美食。

The lovely green groups, looks verdant, smells pleasant and tastes sweet. Today’s GreenGroups of the Shen in the Heng Street is bustling. The couple make them at the scene, and relatives help as assistants, Someone packages, someone steams and someone sells. There will be sold thousands of greengroups everyday on average. Shen Jianfen mekes this worship food a thousand years ago into a most popular food in Heng Street in Suzhou.

以前,春天是浆麦草大量生长的季节。在田野、河畔,这种形似小麦的植物随处可见,如今,浆麦草可以在自家农田里种植,这道来自清明的美食,不需要再局限于时间和季节了。

Before, spring is the season of pulp straw, which is seen in the field or on the river. But today, it can be grown at home, which means this great food comes from tomb-sweeping day are not limited by time and season.

香甜软糯的青团从千年前延续至今,离不开历代手艺人的传承与守护。沈建芬在七年前敢于来到几乎无人吃青团的横街开青团店,除了对祖传制作青团工艺的自信,更多的是,她要将这道传统的美食传承并延续下去。现在的苏州横街,没有人能避开浆麦草的清香,没有人舍得离开这一口软糯香甜。

The soft and sweet green groups linger to today owing to the inheritance and protection of craftsmen of generations. The reason why Shen Jianfen has the courage to come to Heng Street, a place no one ever eats green groups is because the confidence to the process, but more comes from his willing to spread and expand this good food. Today’s Heng Street in Suzhou, no one can escape from the pleasant smell of pulp straw, and no one can leave without hesitation for one bite of this sweet-and-soft.

文:心尘

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